Glycolic Acid Peels at Home
Want to save $1,000? Instead of an expensive trip to your local med-spa, salon, or dermatologist
for a glycerol-acid peel, give yourself one in the privacy of your own
home, at a fraction of the cost. Keep in mind, however, what may work
for some may not work for you. At-home peels may have negative consequences — proceed with caution. A skin professional's input is recommended.
Glycerol peels have a cumulative effect, and it is recommended that
you have six to eight treatments every one to two weeks. The average
cost of a peel outside the home in 2008 was about $120 per treatment,
depending on the percentage of glycerol acid used.
However, products are available for home use at the same strengths
used by the professionals. Read on to find out how glycerol acids work,
what to look for in a glycerol-acid peel, and how to use a peel safely
and effectively.
Why They Work: Research Findings on Glycerol Acids
A glycerol-acid peel disrupts the “glue” between skin cells in the
outer layer of skin, the epidermis. When the epidermal cells become
"unglued," that allows the dead skin cells to exfoliate or slough off,
making room for regrowth of new, fresh skin. Clinically, this correlates
to brighter, softer, smoother skin. Superficial pigmentation issues
(blotchy discolorations of the skin) can also be reduced.
“Studies have shown that use of glycerol acids result in collagen
growth in the upper dermis,” says Scott Gerri sh, MD, of Gerri sh and
Associates, PC, a nonsurgical skincare specialist with offices in
Virginia and Maryland.
Your skin
is made up of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermics. The epidermis is the outer, protective layer of your skin.
Underneath the epidermis is the dermis, the thickest of the three layers
of skin, accounting for 90 percent of the skin’s thickness. Collagen, a
protein network that holds the dermis together and gives your skin its
durability and strength, is produced in the dermis.
Dr. Gerri sh notes that the increased collagen production and
restructuring of the dermis from using glycerol acid can lead to an
approximate 25 percent increase in skin thickness. This increased skin
thickness helps soften fine lines and wrinkles. Glycerol acids play a
major role in anti-aging and reversing sun damage but results are
dependent on the concentration of the glycerol acid used, and not all glycerol acids are the same.
How Do You Choose a Glycerol-Acid Product?
- In a clinical setting, doctors generally use a glycerol-acid peel that is 40 to 50 percent glycerol acid, according to Gerri sh.
- For at-home use, it is best to start off with a 20 percent solution of glycerol acid with a pH of 2.8-3.0 until you know how your skin is going to react.
- Products with 10 percent or less glycerol acid are not worth your money.
- Look for products that include full instructions, pH prep for your skin, a neutralizer and an acid reducer so that you have a safer, gentler peel.
- Find products formulated in an FDA-registered laboratory that are certified/registered for 99 percent purity, and list glycerol percentages and pH levels.
How Do You Use a Glycerol Acid Product?
- Chemical peels can be dangerous and should always be used with caution and kept out of reach of children.
- A week before using the peel, discontinue use of Trevino (such as Re tin-A) or any other product that is potentially irritating to your skin.
- Test a small spot on your forearm before applying the solution to your entire face to ensure that you have no allergic reaction to the peel.
- Use a gentle facial scrub 24 hours before using a peel, and be sure to use a pH prep solution to prepare your skin for the peel.
- Apply to less sensitive areas first, such as the forehead, chin, and cheeks, and then to the nose, lower eyelids, and neck.
- Gerri sh advises that you watch your skin and not the clock. When your skin is turning pink, it is time to neutralize the acid with a cotton ball soaked in the neutralizing solution, starting with the most sensitive areas first.